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Post by oldsalt on Apr 17, 2007 11:15:54 GMT 1
Thankfully round here we don't get too many snakes What about the ones in the Bedroom!!
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Post by trevera25 on Apr 17, 2007 11:41:04 GMT 1
hehe , now now David , don't go getting all excited on me hehe
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Post by oldsalt on Apr 17, 2007 11:52:07 GMT 1
hehe , now now David , don't go getting all excited on me hehe Thought it might make you slither squirm and wriggle a bit. ;D ;D
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Post by Bendyone on Apr 17, 2007 16:10:25 GMT 1
Your best bet
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Post by trevera25 on Apr 17, 2007 18:10:27 GMT 1
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Post by Badger Birch on Apr 17, 2007 20:00:59 GMT 1
But ensure you Insure first.......................
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Post by NigeL on Apr 26, 2007 19:20:22 GMT 1
But ensure you Insure first....................... In the days when I sold Insurance - Yep I did honest !! One of our Phrases was : It's better to have it and not need it .... than to need it and not have it !! Insurance that is !
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Post by trevera25 on Apr 26, 2007 21:04:53 GMT 1
Now you're just ganging up on me
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Post by mirelle on Apr 27, 2007 1:07:33 GMT 1
"Better have it off at once", as the Actress said to the Bishop.
Hot air gun will do the trick.
Unlike Nigel, I'd not be very keen on putting it back, because boats do acquire bilge water, and that water will saturate the ply , inevitably. The strip gives that moisture nowhere to go when the boat is ashore, and that inevtably brings the moisture level into the range where rot will happen.
However, if its there to lend support to an already weakened bottom panel / keel-hog joint, it might be necessary to put it back, in which case I agree with Nigel as to the method.
My immediate suspicion is that there is a leak somewhere along the keel rabbet. There are better (epoxy!) ways of dealing with that now.
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Post by trevera25 on Apr 27, 2007 1:20:53 GMT 1
At this time I've stripped all the tape off the entire keel and I've left it to dry out slowly , it's now at a stage where I intend to add a bit of heat to draw out any water that's still there using a halogen heater left on for a few days so it's a constant heat source . Once dry I don't intend using tape again because it seems the tape has been the cause of the problem . If I'm wrong , please tell
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Post by petecooper on Apr 27, 2007 8:08:23 GMT 1
I don't think that the tape was original, but it might have been hiding something unpleasant. You will be able to tell easily when it is all dried out - worth very careful inspection before launching!
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Post by trevera25 on Apr 27, 2007 10:22:39 GMT 1
I've been advised by a couple of people that it is indeed original and I've found it's been used all over the boat , even in the cockpit , it seems to have been used to seal the end grain as it's along most of the joins . A small area ( about 6" square ) on the keel seems to be the only area that's been damaged though
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Post by mirelle on Apr 27, 2007 10:25:29 GMT 1
Ah. In that case I agree with Nigel's method of replacing it. I'm a big supporter of the principle that if a boat has lasted "x" years, her original construction must have been right!
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Post by trevera25 on Apr 27, 2007 10:31:46 GMT 1
The problem is that if I replace it and don't get it to adhere perfectly then I'm looking at the same thing happening again because the glass tape seems to hold the water in rather than letting it escape
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Post by mirelle on Apr 27, 2007 10:45:41 GMT 1
Are there any sister ships nearby that you could get a look at?
Nigel's method as described in his post above is certainly the best way to do it if you do put it back.
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Post by trevera25 on Apr 27, 2007 10:51:44 GMT 1
No others like her round here unfortunately , and I'm in two minds about replacing the tape at all , I just can't help thinking that it's the tape that's caused the problem in the first place
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Post by mirelle on Apr 27, 2007 11:00:50 GMT 1
Well, the closest I have got to this problem in my own experience was a 9ft "Nutshell" glued lap clinker plywood dinghy that I built from a kit in 1991. (Still got it; excellent tender, incidentally). The intructions called for the whole thing to be encapsulated in epoxy inside and out, which I did. However, after about four years she developed what I can only call "osmosis" - the epoxy on the underside of the hull developed blisters and started to come away in small patches. These I ripped off and re-epoxied, but a few years later a friend happened to lean on the boat when she was upside down and his arm went right into the aft buoyancy tank (oops! ) |There was a patch of rot about six inches by four inches; quite localised, where the epoxy had got a pin hole and had trapped water against the plywood. I repaired that and on inspiration removed (hot air gun, long nasty job) all the epoxy from the outside of the boat. No more trouble.
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Post by trevera25 on Apr 27, 2007 11:03:45 GMT 1
Sounds to me like I'm better off going with gut feeling on this then , the thought of what could happen along the keel if that happened doesn't bear thinking about
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Post by NigeL on May 5, 2007 7:42:22 GMT 1
Sounds to me like I'm better off going with gut feeling on this then , the thought of what could happen along the keel if that happened doesn't bear thinking about OK ... lets put somethings together ... a) Epoxy strips etc. will generally prevent water / moisture getting out AND in. b) Paint alone is micro-porous - one of the reasons that so many coats are applied to various. Antifoul is particularly non-watertight ! c) Wood needs to breathe .... expand / contract without too much restriction. d) Marine ply / WBP quality grades are made with waterproof glues between veneers. So how to solve your problem ? You have a boat that has joints covered in grp strip. It is constructed of WBP ply (very few boats in those days actually used high price Marine Ply for general hull construction - well that's what I was told as a lad in the yards I helped out in !!). So we have a material that really should breathe both sides as it cannot like packing ply breathe through one side only. But if the area covered by GRP strip is small and majority of surface area is not GRP - then why should it not breathe reasonably ? I tend to feel that unless I could identify exact reason and location of why strip was applied - I would tend to re-apply and do it as best as possible. Maybe it's possible to do inside the hull instead of outside ? The actual joint and grains outside as Mirelle says could be sealed with Epoxy. (you can get epoxy that you literally paint on !) Why not consider a thinner, narrower strip as replacement giving wood best chance but returning the joint strength ? In Resin Suppliers you can buy rolls of GRP tape from 1cm to 1m wide ... in finishing tissue grade up to real heavy industrial joint weight. I know this is not what you want to hear - but you are experiencing the Plywood boat problem .... an excellent material for boat building and generally easy to repair / work with. But it has the disadvantage of localised rot ... and as Mirelle illustrated - can appear OK - but be weakened and fail. BUT don't be put of ... the pocket knife is your friend in this .... if checked for at intervals is easily found and remedied. I think at end of day ... Dave - you will find your answer ... a matter of what you can live with ... but first I think a long hard look at the undersurface now that strip is off ... try and imagine why its there ...
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Post by Badger Birch on May 13, 2007 9:14:29 GMT 1
Agree with Nigel. Your idea of just leavingteh tape off is a non-starter. OK it will stop water getting out but I expect you are gonna want to sail the boat tehrefore she is gonna be in the water and the tape will stop water coming in!
Do it right, tape is there for a reason and is a tried and tested method.
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