3 strand vs Braid ...

[NigeL]

Many Boat owners will buy literally all ropes they use in braided form ... whatever size. For mooring warps, halyards, sheets .... literally all jobs.

The fact is that a) 3 strand is far more hard wearing than braid as it can suffer strands / fibers wearing through and still retain good strength - but braid dramatically reduces in strength when the outer braid is worn, b) 3 strand is generally a lot cheaper, c) will suffer turns on blocks more than braided.

If you want a good towing warp ... anchor warp .... mooring warp where hard wearing and strength is called for - go for stranded instead of braided.
I even IMHO ... this is personal view ... consider 3 strand or cable laid rope far superior to such as some ropes advertised specially for anchoring - as the specialised are quite loose in the plait .... (of course I still believe in a good length of chain and rope as secondary !!)

[searush]

Fine, no disagreement there, but I have aquired ex-climbing ropes cheap in the past and they are excellent to handle, plus their stretch makes them superb as mooring lines. Mind you, I wouldn't use them for long-term marina tie-up because of the risk of chafe.

Similarly, I like braided lines as sheets because of their comfortable handling.

[malcb]

Nigel, completely agree. A lot of boat owners don't seem to be aware that different rope construction is intended for different jobs.

You should select the right rope for the job you want it to do.

I think a lot of boat owneres tend to use whatever is available for mooring lines, for instance. I've seen a lot of boats moored up with 'old' halyards. Why? If the rope was no good for a halyard, then why is it still good enough to moor your pride and joy up with.

Agree with Searush, that climbing ropes are made to stretch and absorb shocks. However, it is worth noting that climbers scrap a rope after it has been subjected to stress. Ok in a fall, which puts sudden stress on the rope.

However, I would prefer to use the right rope for the job that I want it to do.

[trevera25]

Very useful thread but for those of us that are novices , how do you tell the difference

[malcb]

trevera25 said:

Very useful thread but for those of us that are novices , how do you tell the difference

This info is from the NMCS shorebased course notes for synthetic ropes.

Mooring Ropes - nylon is strong and shock absorbent, but the cheaper polypropylene is usually adequate if renewed periodically. (Better if stranded as stranded rope grips shore side cleats better - my note)

AnchorWarps - always use nylon because it is strong and elastic, with excellent shock-absorbent properties. Plaited nylon is most suitable as it will lay better when uncoiled. (but you need chain between the anchor and the nylon)

Halyards- for rope halyards use pre-stretched polyester (Terylene or Dacron). For wire halyards wher a rope tail is used, braided Terylene is better)

Sheets- braided Terylene should be used as it is kind to the hands and has a good frictional surface for gripping the drum of a sheet winch.

[trevera25]

Thanks Malc , but if I had different types and didn't know what they were , is there a way of telling what sort they are without a label . I've got lots of lines but don't know how to tell the difference

[NigeL]

trevera25 said:

Thanks Malc , but if I had different types and didn't know what they were , is there a way of telling what sort they are without a label . I've got lots of lines but don't know how to tell the difference

Ok - I'll add a "non-technical" bit here ......

Soft and comfortable .... easy grip with hands : Sheets

Softish, reasonable comfort ... hands get good grip : Halyards

Hard and stranded - moorings, towing, anchoring etc.

Note that mooring and towing choose floating lines .... for anchoring a non-floating line.

Malcb's bit about Halyards then doing Mooring service ... I see Malcb's point and would generally agree - but also add - that often a halyard is worn in one or two places - and those normally correspond to blocks / turn load bearing points ... rest of rope is often good. Cutting out bad chafed part and reducing to short mooring duty is acceptable ...... The point is to not rely on original halyard length but take out the high stressed points.

Rope can nearly always be downgraded in job it does ... till it becomes a risk.

Care for rope >

a) Never leave any rope out in the sun / weather coiled on deck. Halyards / mooring lines are not coile and generally stay "washed" by rain and blown by moving air.
b) Always try to stow "raised off" locker bottom on a grid etc. - to allow drainage of water / air to pass under.
c) Never stow with possibility of fuels / oils / chemicals contact.
d) Frequent rinse with fresh-water to take out salts / sand / crud etc. to reduce chafe and abrasion inside the rope.
e) Try to protect rope where it passes through fairleads for extended periods ... rag / plastic pipe (maybe taped at upper end ... open at bottom) etc.
f) Tidy up the frayed end before rope starts falling apart ....
g) Undo all knots and bends when not in use ... allow rope to "re-form" .... remember a knot or bend is forcing the rope to do what is not natural ...
h) If you can it helps to wash ropes and hang in loose coils vertically .....

A Macwester 26 that I surveyed some years ago .... had converted one Cockpit locker into solely a rope stow.
He had fixed a number of "wash-lines" the length of the locker ... he then hung each rope / warp of the line vertically into the locker ... Made it easy to choose a line instead of like me and thousands of others ... scavenging through that pile in bottom of locker !
Another boat had fashioned canvas bag on lines of the ones that hang over rear carseat backs ... with pockets along ... he hung it from aft pushpit rail and put in the working selection of ropes .. spares stayed in locker. So meant any rope used if wet etc. would return to its draining pocket ....

How many of us stow ropes in with fenders ? I know I do - I only have the one locker for them ... But it's not so good really ... which is why I now tend to hang fenders of the stern pushpit rail when on board ......

[trevera25]

Thanks for the idiots guide Nigel , makes sense now

[NigeL]

trevera25 said:

Thanks for the idiots guide Nigel , makes sense now

The main point is - most ropes in use on a boat are over-sized ... so in main - it comes down to what is commfortable .. fits the winch / hands etc.

My Alacrity 19 and Snapdragon 23 ... had 3 stranded left hand lay rope for halyards. I remember a guy coming to me one day ...chatting and watched me re-eye-splice the genny attachment ... "You don't use rope like that do you .....?" (All said nicely - not anyway to upset etc. .....). I replied that yes ... why not .. it's hard wearing .. easy to splice etc. He made the usual comments about braid on braid etc. etc. and then I showed the section that normally sat on the mast sheave at the head ... and also mentioned how old the rope was .... QED - he admitted that he changed his halyards often due to chafe on the outer braid cover etc.
Present boat SA has braid - but that was already on there.

Another point to watch ... If the rope is subject to twist or liability to ... don't use laid up rope ... as this affects its lay-up. Use plaited or braided as they are non-directional.
Also be careful of left and right hand lay. Left hand is common and good ... Right hand is less common and comes from ships cable days ... Nelson and all that ... due to anchoring and windlasses etc. The rope would tighten its lay during heaving etc.